Happiness among the ruins

There’s a clothing shop on my street that I’ve gotten a few things from. Everything there is secondhand, and a lot of it has been modified, which I’m getting really into (learning some very basic upcycling techniques until I graduate to using a sewing machine.) Anyway, the owner is a very sweet Thai woman who always gives me discounts. The other day when I was buying this distressed denim jacket, she asked if I had any friends in Sukhothai, and I said, “yeah, you!” Which has been the beginning of a beautiful friendship. 

We agreed to meet for coffee the following day. We took her motorcycle there and had breakfast together. There is a big language barrier, but she appreciates it when I try to speak Thai and vice versa; so we were able to communicate somewhat. Anyway, living somewhere which does not primarily use my language has helped me to see that spoken word is only one  component to communication. You can get pretty far on a smile and open body language (fortunately an area in which I’ve always excelled.) 

She inquired about what I was doing later on that day, and I suggested we check out the Old City, which is the biggest attraction in Sukhothai, and oddly somewhere I had not been yet. She was really excited to take me there. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this but Thai people are so nice. She also insisted on paying for my breakfast because she said “today is for you,” since I am new to the city.

My new friend and I

The first thing we did when we got to the Old City area was rent bicycles. Again, my new friend covered me. She also managed to get us both in for free, I think because she knew the person at the entrance. In general though, as a farang it is much easier to do stuff if you have a Thai person present.

We biked around ruins and temples and palm trees. It was incredibly peaceful. We’d stop at a temple every now and again, where my new friend wanted to take dozens of pictures of me because it was my first time. She’s super into getting the angle perfect, and even instructed me a few times to squat down when taking my own pictures.

She bought us some flowers to give as offerings at the first temple we visited, and showed me the correct way to bow and pray to the Buddha, which is to bow three times, and press your hands into the ground after each bow.

It was so hot out, but I’ve never felt more calm in my city than I did riding around that day and taking in the scenery.

We had lunch together, I had a papaya salad which according to her is the best one in Sukhothai, and then got back on her motorbike and headed home.

I was trying to instruct her on how to get to my apartment, which has proved challenging in the past. I even say the name of my Soi (street), but I don’t think I’m pronouncing it correctly because I always just get puzzled looks (ordering Food Panda is a trip). Once we were approaching the street, I just pointed, and that’s when we realized… we’re also neighbors!

She gave me a few hours to relax, and then picked me up at night so we could head to the market together.

It’s been a rollercoaster ride since moving out here. Some days I just burst into tears, it’s such an intense experience. The smallest things can feel defeating sometimes, but it’s also the small things that keep me going and remind me I’m on the right path. It’s days like the one I had with my new friend that make me feel like everything is worth it.

As days go on, I can see that there really is a bigger picture at play, and one of the things I’m learning is how to endure what I have to, but also enjoy everything I can.

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